Category: Boat structure

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Compound Bevels for Deck Beam Glue Blocks

Glue blocks for the deck beams require compound bevels for a good fit.

Wow!  That title is a mouthful isn’t it?  It occurred to me when I was making glue blocks for some of the deck beams that this is a perfect opportunity to talk about how the proper use of a few tools makes cutting and fitting bevels easier than it looks.  I used to think that the way pros got such tight fitting joints (when they weren’t standard angles, like 90°) was by simple trial and error.  While that method works, and you still need to employ it from time to time, a tool called a bevel gauge makes the process so much simpler. Continue reading “Compound Bevels for Deck Beam Glue Blocks”

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Deck Beams for the PB22

Using 3/16″ plywood to pattern the deck beams

It’s time to start working on the deck.  And the first step is to make the deck beams.  You might think the shape of the deck beams is a simple curve that’s given to you in the plans, and you’d be right–kind of.  You’re given the curve of the deck in the profile view in the lines drawing, and from that you can derive the deck beams curves using your lofting.  You might be surprised to find out that the deck beams aren’t all the same radius curve (“camber”).  Most of them are very close.  But they tend to be a little different forward and aft.  Boats just seem to look better when the deck camber (curve of the deck) is a little steeper forward. Continue reading “Deck Beams for the PB22”

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Developing the Sheer Line

A sweet and fair line is what you’re after when developing the sheer line.

One of the most critical steps in building a boat is to develop a fair sheer line and trim the hull to that line.  The sheer line is the line where the hull joins the deck.  It’s probably the most scrutinized line on the boat.  It’s what everyone notices. Continue reading “Developing the Sheer Line”

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Nip and Tuck for Lady Jane

Lady Jane with the bilge exposed.

A couple of months ago, Lady Jane came into the shop to get some paint and varnish.   She’s a “Handy Billy” design by one of my favorite boat builders, Harry Bryan.  You can read more about the design here. Continue reading “Nip and Tuck for Lady Jane”

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Layup of the Riva Foredeck

 

Laying up the deck using packing tape, and checking alignment with the center panels.

Having settled on the option of hand laying the deck, it was time to start milling wood.  Take a look back at the first post in this series, Working on the Riva Foredeck.   Look closely at the picture of the overall deck.  See how the pinstripe holly lines are symmetrical about the centerline, and how they line up fore and aft from the outboard panels to the center panels?  That’s what is going to make this a beautiful deck. Continue reading “Layup of the Riva Foredeck”

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Cutting the Flat

You can see the exposed end grain in this picture of the flat cut most of the way with a power plane.

Last time, I talked a little about cutting the flat along the keel so I could put a cap over it to keep from having exposed end grain there.  My friend Steve asks, “Well, exactly how did you do that?” (or words to that effect).  It did, in fact, take a little bit of doing.  So I decided to explain myself a little better in a follow-up post. Continue reading “Cutting the Flat”

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Fitting the Mahogany Layer on the Palm Beach 22

Gluing mahogany planking on the Palm Beach 22
You’ll use every clamp in the shop to hold that mahogany in place while the glue sets.

Our final layer of planking will run longitudinally to look like traditional carvel planking in this build.  That’s where the longitudinal mahogany planks are laid edge to edge and screwed to the underlying frames.  When it’s complete, you end up with a very smooth, fair hull with seams so tight you can’t even feel the transition from one plank to the adjacent one.  Well, that’s the ideal, anyway.  These boats worked because the seams tightened up after the boat was in the water a few days–tight enough to keep most of the water out.  And while it’s helpful to remember we’re building a boat and not a Steinway piano, with a little know-how and patience, we can get reasonably close to that ideal.  We’re going deep into the weeds in the next couple of posts so bear with me. Continue reading “Fitting the Mahogany Layer on the Palm Beach 22”

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1958 HiLiner – Reshaping the bottom

1958 HiLiner
The HiLiner was built in Massachusetts. It’s a light, fast boat that’s a lot of fun.
1958 HiLiner is a fast, light boat.
This boat is so light, it’s very easy to wheel around the shop. It’s a molded plywood boat–lightweight ant beautiful.

We recently got a new project in the boat shop.  A 1958 HiLiner came in with the complaint that it leaks badly.  I took a look and found the bottom had lost its original shape over the years.  The keel had compressed up into the boat, and some of the frames had separated.  It’s not unusual for this kind of thing to happen to these classic boats over the years.  After all, this boat is 63 years old.  That’s older than I am (not by much, but still). Continue reading “1958 HiLiner – Reshaping the bottom”

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Fairing the Hull Before the Final Layer

Fairing compound on the hull
Low spots have been filled, and the entire hull has been scrape-filled with fairing compound.

After three layers of 1/8″ planking, it’s time to fair the hull.  In some builds, particularly those with a painted hull, you might wait until after the final layer is on.  But with only 3/16″ thickness in the final layer of mahogany, you can see how it’s advantageous to get the hull nice and fair before it goes on.  Sanding through the mahogany to get a hump out would be disastrous. Continue reading “Fairing the Hull Before the Final Layer”

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Laminating the Sheer Clamp

Sheer clamp of Palm Beach 22
The laminated sheer clamp in place. Notice the packing tape in the frame notch so the piece can be separated from the frames and faired before permanent installation.

First, what is the sheer clamp?  It’s the longitudinal piece to which the deck and topsides are clamped to make the hull-deck joint.  As you might imagine, it’s position is at the sheer line of the boat.  The finished dimension called for in the plan is 5/8 x 2-1/2 inches.  Continue reading “Laminating the Sheer Clamp”