Category: Boatbuilding methods

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Cutting the Transom Cheeks on the Palm Beach 22

Palm Beach 22 transom cheek
The profile view of the transom cheek.

It seems like forever since I talked about working on the Palm Beach 22 in this space.  Intervening boat repairs do have a way of taking up time here at the boatworks!  Anyway, when we left off I was talking about the plan for framing the transom.  I had made up 2 blanks with the curve of the transom cheeks.  You can read about it here.

Transom cheek blank
I checked the curve of the blanks to the lofting board. If you look closely you can see the line for station 10 hugging the piece, just inside the line for station 9.

You can see the blank laminated to the curve here.  Now it’s time to cut the compound curve out of this blank.  Remember this piece not only curves inboard, it also curves aft when you look at it from the side.  Take a look at Zimmer’s drawing again.  It’s at the top of this post. Continue reading “Cutting the Transom Cheeks on the Palm Beach 22”

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Add A Windlass to a SeaRay Sundancer–part 2

Windlass for SeaRay Sundancer
The finished “bowsprit” with windlass, anchor and anchor roller.

In my last post I talked about the plan for adding a windlass to a medium sized powerboat, a 2008 SeaRay 240 Sundancer.  If you missed it, you can read more about it here.  When we left off, I was fabricating a platform to fit where the lid for the anchor locker is.  There’s a recessed gutter around the opening that’s ideal for a trapezoidal frame that supports the platform. Continue reading “Add A Windlass to a SeaRay Sundancer–part 2”

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A Windlass for a 2008 SeaRay Sundancer-part 1

Fitting the frame for the bow pulpit.

Not too long ago, a customer came in needing a windlass installed on his SeaRay Sundancer.  Luckily, he had some excellent plans for how he wanted it done.  He wanted to take the lid off the anchor locker and fabricate a piece to fit over it that protrudes enough from the bow to stow the anchor.  Sort of like a mini-bow pulpit.  This was a great project for my shop because it encompasses a variety of skills, all of which I’m pretty good at, even if I do say so myself.   Continue reading “A Windlass for a 2008 SeaRay Sundancer-part 1”

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Varnishing Stella

Varnish restores the luster of brightwork
Detail of the toe rail after the first full coat of varnish

This week I had the opportunity to meet one of the more attractive boats in the Charleston area.  “Stella” is a 2014 Chris Craft Launch 25, and she came in for some varnish on her brightwork.  Here you can see a detail of the port toe rail after the first of two refresher coats. Continue reading “Varnishing Stella”

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Framing the Transom of the Palm Beach 22

Transom framing for Palm Beach 22
Transom framing view from the front. The red arrow points to the transom “cheek” we’re going to build.

We’ve got all the frames built and set up.  But we’ve still got to frame the transom of the Palm Beach 22.  We’ll build the framework and add it to our setup so we can begin planking.  The picture above is a rendering of what our framework should look like.  Note that I’ve pointed out a particular piece I call the transom “cheek”.  You can see the transom curves inward at the top (called “Tumblehome”).  This is part of the signature look of a mahogany runabout. Continue reading “Framing the Transom of the Palm Beach 22”

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Just When You Think You Know What You’re Doing…

Awlwood Red stain bleed results in dark bumps that must be sanded away.

You find out there’s more to know.

Well, that’s often the case here at Ashley River Boatworks, anyway.  In my last post, I talked about making a test strip to decide what stain and finish options to use in the Palm Beach 22 runabout we’re building.  I wanted to test some conventional oil based stains next to a new staining system by Awlgrip that I used on a previous project–a restoration of a 1949 Chris Craft runabout. Continue reading “Just When You Think You Know What You’re Doing…”

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Picking a Color for the Boat

Making a Stain Test Strip

It’s not too early to start thinking about the finishing program for this boat.  I know, it seems ridiculous to be thinking about this at such an early stage, but I want to test several different options for varnishes and urethane clear coats for durability.  Considering the effort that goes into finishing, it’s worth gathering a little empirical data to help make the decision. Continue reading “Picking a Color for the Boat”

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Setting up the Palm Beach 22

Laying a batten across the frames shows high and low spots

Once you have the frames made, you have to set them up in the right position.  Oddly enough, this process is called “Setting up”.  (See, there are actually some terms in boatbuilding that are self-explanatory!)  The primary thing is to get the frames secured exactly the correct distance from each other and at the proper level.  You do this by using guidelines that you’ve transferred from your patterns and lofting to the frames themselves.  For instance, you draw the center line on each frame, and align it under a string line on your strongback.  Also, you can attach a cross spall to each frame at, say, the +24″ waterline.  Then line these up as you erect the frames. Continue reading “Setting up the Palm Beach 22”

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Solution to a Vexing Problem

Lining up the frames for the Palm Beach 22

As you can see in the above picture, we’re starting to compile a nice set of frames for the Palm Beach 22.  If you’ve forgotten what this boat is supposed to look like, you can check out the plans here.  At any rate, you can see the frames have notches in them for battens that run the length of the hull.  And as luck would have it, one of these notches is over the top of the 1-1/8″ wide x 6-1/2″ deep stringer.  The frames are to be held fast to the stringers with 1/4″ carriage bolts.  That means drilling and counter boring holes through the frames and the stringers.  That presents us with two problems.  The first is how to drill that long hole through both the frame and stringer.  That’s a tough one to just eye-ball without accidentally coming out the side of the stringer.  How would you do it? Continue reading “Solution to a Vexing Problem”

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Making the Frames

Using a pattern bit to cut out the frames.

Now that we have corrected the patterns (see previous post), we’re ready to use them to cut out our frames for the boat.  It’s a straightforward and repetitive process.   Continue reading “Making the Frames”