Category: Boatbuilding methods

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A Windlass for a 2008 SeaRay Sundancer-part 1

Fitting the frame for the bow pulpit.

Not too long ago, a customer came in needing a windlass installed on his SeaRay Sundancer.  Luckily, he had some excellent plans for how he wanted it done.  He wanted to take the lid off the anchor locker and fabricate a piece to fit over it that protrudes enough from the bow to stow the anchor.  Sort of like a mini-bow pulpit.  This was a great project for my shop because it encompasses a variety of skills, all of which I’m pretty good at, even if I do say so myself.   Continue reading “A Windlass for a 2008 SeaRay Sundancer-part 1”

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Varnishing Stella

Varnish restores the luster of brightwork
Detail of the toe rail after the first full coat of varnish

This week I had the opportunity to meet one of the more attractive boats in the Charleston area.  “Stella” is a 2014 Chris Craft Launch 25, and she came in for some varnish on her brightwork.  Here you can see a detail of the port toe rail after the first of two refresher coats. Continue reading “Varnishing Stella”

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Framing the Transom of the Palm Beach 22

Transom framing for Palm Beach 22
Transom framing view from the front. The red arrow points to the transom “cheek” we’re going to build.

We’ve got all the frames built and set up.  But we’ve still got to frame the transom of the Palm Beach 22.  We’ll build the framework and add it to our setup so we can begin planking.  The picture above is a rendering of what our framework should look like.  Note that I’ve pointed out a particular piece I call the transom “cheek”.  You can see the transom curves inward at the top (called “Tumblehome”).  This is part of the signature look of a mahogany runabout. Continue reading “Framing the Transom of the Palm Beach 22”

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Just When You Think You Know What You’re Doing…

Awlwood Red stain bleed results in dark bumps that must be sanded away.

You find out there’s more to know.

Well, that’s often the case here at Ashley River Boatworks, anyway.  In my last post, I talked about making a test strip to decide what stain and finish options to use in the Palm Beach 22 runabout we’re building.  I wanted to test some conventional oil based stains next to a new staining system by Awlgrip that I used on a previous project–a restoration of a 1949 Chris Craft runabout. Continue reading “Just When You Think You Know What You’re Doing…”

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Picking a Color for the Boat

Making a Stain Test Strip

It’s not too early to start thinking about the finishing program for this boat.  I know, it seems ridiculous to be thinking about this at such an early stage, but I want to test several different options for varnishes and urethane clear coats for durability.  Considering the effort that goes into finishing, it’s worth gathering a little empirical data to help make the decision. Continue reading “Picking a Color for the Boat”

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Setting up the Palm Beach 22

Laying a batten across the frames shows high and low spots

Once you have the frames made, you have to set them up in the right position.  Oddly enough, this process is called “Setting up”.  (See, there are actually some terms in boatbuilding that are self-explanatory!)  The primary thing is to get the frames secured exactly the correct distance from each other and at the proper level.  You do this by using guidelines that you’ve transferred from your patterns and lofting to the frames themselves.  For instance, you draw the center line on each frame, and align it under a string line on your strongback.  Also, you can attach a cross spall to each frame at, say, the +24″ waterline.  Then line these up as you erect the frames. Continue reading “Setting up the Palm Beach 22”

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Solution to a Vexing Problem

Lining up the frames for the Palm Beach 22

As you can see in the above picture, we’re starting to compile a nice set of frames for the Palm Beach 22.  If you’ve forgotten what this boat is supposed to look like, you can check out the plans here.  At any rate, you can see the frames have notches in them for battens that run the length of the hull.  And as luck would have it, one of these notches is over the top of the 1-1/8″ wide x 6-1/2″ deep stringer.  The frames are to be held fast to the stringers with 1/4″ carriage bolts.  That means drilling and counter boring holes through the frames and the stringers.  That presents us with two problems.  The first is how to drill that long hole through both the frame and stringer.  That’s a tough one to just eye-ball without accidentally coming out the side of the stringer.  How would you do it? Continue reading “Solution to a Vexing Problem”

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Patterns for the Frames

CNC cut patterns for the Palm Beach 22 designed by Nelson Zimmer

I was able to get full size plans for the frames of this design from a fellow in New Zealand.  Using his CAD files, I was able to use a CNC (computer numerical control) router to cut out patterns for me to use in cutting out the frames.  Sounds like a nifty process, doesn’t it?  Well nothing is ever as easy as it seems. Continue reading “Patterns for the Frames”

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Wood Moves!–How to Cope

Cutting a board sometimes releases stress that makes it warp.

One of the problems any woodworker faces is the fact that wood can move on you.  In the photo above, you can see how a “practice stringer” I cut curved like the dickens!  I suspected it might do this, which is why I cut out the practice piece.  You see, cutting a board will often release tension in the wood.  That’s why a board can close up and pinch your saw sometimes causing it to buck. Continue reading “Wood Moves!–How to Cope”