Boat Repair, Restoration, Building
I was able to get full size plans for the frames of this design from a fellow in New Zealand. Using his CAD files, I was able to use a CNC (computer numerical control) router to cut out patterns for me to use in cutting out the frames. Sounds like a nifty process, doesn’t it? Well nothing is ever as easy as it seems. Continue reading “Patterns for the Frames”
One of the problems any woodworker faces is the fact that wood can move on you. In the photo above, you can see how a “practice stringer” I cut curved like the dickens! I suspected it might do this, which is why I cut out the practice piece. You see, cutting a board will often release tension in the wood. That’s why a board can close up and pinch your saw sometimes causing it to buck. Continue reading “Wood Moves!–How to Cope”
You need something to hold the frames in perfect alignment as you assemble the parts of your boat–something strong that will hold the shape you want over the period you’re building the boat. It has to be rigid and easy to attach pieces to. The answer is a Strongback. And I want to be able to move the boat around the shop if I need to as well. At some point, we’ll have to flip this hull over to work on the inside. It will be nice to be able roll the strongback around the shop to get the gantry cranes over the hull when that time comes. Continue reading “The Strongback–A Platform to Build on”
Of course, once you decide to build a boat, you’ve got to have materials. In our case, the main material is wood–all different kinds. We’re using Sipo, a kind of African Mahogany for the frames, planking, and cockpit woodwork. Fir will be used for longitudinal members like the. We’ll also use fir to laminate the curved pieces like the stem, keel, and chines. Deck framing will be of Sitka Spruce. And Alaskan Yellow Cedar will be used to build the cold-molded hull. Continue reading “Lumber for the Palm Beach 22”
In days of old boatbuilders would carve out a half hull model and show it to the client. Once everyone agreed on the shape, the builder would take the lines off the model, loft it (see discussion of lofting here), and build the boat. The half hull model was the starting point. Nowadays, we have the lines already on paper, and we can use that to build a half hull model to represent the design of the boat in 3D. Actually, we can model it in 3D on computers now, but sometimes one wants to do things the old-fashioned way. Continue reading “Building a Half Hull Model”
So, we’ve decided on boat plans and purchased them. We’ve detailed the lumber we’ll need and ordered it. Now it’s time to draw the boat’s lines full scale. That means we’ll end up with a 22 foot long drawing of the boat, since the boat will in fact be 22 feet long. As a friend of mine in the construction industry used to say, we’re going to draw it at a scale of 12 inches to the foot. The process is called lofting, because the only place big enough to do this in boat shops of old was the sail loft. Continue reading “Lofting the Palm Beach 22”
Nelson Zimmer was a prominent naval architect, born in 1922. He passed away in February 2007. Mr. Zimmer sold his first design in 1931, and over the years worked in a variety of places, including Chris Craft. I don’t know when he designed the Palm Beach 22. If you know, or know how I can find out, please let me know.
But I’m very excited that the Palm Beach 22 is the next project here at Ashley River Boatworks. We’ve got the plans in hand and have researched lumber requirements and suppliers. Lofting will begin soon.