Boat Repair, Restoration, Building
It’s not too early to start thinking about the finishing program for this boat. I know, it seems ridiculous to be thinking about this at such an early stage, but I want to test several different options for varnishes and urethane clear coats for durability. Considering the effort that goes into finishing, it’s worth gathering a little empirical data to help make the decision. Continue reading “Picking a Color for the Boat”
Once you have the frames made, you have to set them up in the right position. Oddly enough, this process is called “Setting up”. (See, there are actually some terms in boatbuilding that are self-explanatory!) The primary thing is to get the frames secured exactly the correct distance from each other and at the proper level. You do this by using guidelines that you’ve transferred from your patterns and lofting to the frames themselves. For instance, you draw the center line on each frame, and align it under a string line on your strongback. Also, you can attach a cross spall to each frame at, say, the +24″ waterline. Then line these up as you erect the frames. Continue reading “Setting up the Palm Beach 22”
As you can see in the above picture, we’re starting to compile a nice set of frames for the Palm Beach 22. If you’ve forgotten what this boat is supposed to look like, you can check out the plans here. At any rate, you can see the frames have notches in them for battens that run the length of the hull. And as luck would have it, one of these notches is over the top of the 1-1/8″ wide x 6-1/2″ deep stringer. The frames are to be held fast to the stringers with 1/4″ carriage bolts. That means drilling and counter boring holes through the frames and the stringers. That presents us with two problems. The first is how to drill that long hole through both the frame and stringer. That’s a tough one to just eye-ball without accidentally coming out the side of the stringer. How would you do it? Continue reading “Solution to a Vexing Problem”
Now that we have corrected the patterns (see previous post), we’re ready to use them to cut out our frames for the boat. It’s a straightforward and repetitive process. Continue reading “Making the Frames”
I was able to get full size plans for the frames of this design from a fellow in New Zealand. Using his CAD files, I was able to use a CNC (computer numerical control) router to cut out patterns for me to use in cutting out the frames. Sounds like a nifty process, doesn’t it? Well nothing is ever as easy as it seems. Continue reading “Patterns for the Frames”
One of the problems any woodworker faces is the fact that wood can move on you. In the photo above, you can see how a “practice stringer” I cut curved like the dickens! I suspected it might do this, which is why I cut out the practice piece. You see, cutting a board will often release tension in the wood. That’s why a board can close up and pinch your saw sometimes causing it to buck. Continue reading “Wood Moves!–How to Cope”
You need something to hold the frames in perfect alignment as you assemble the parts of your boat–something strong that will hold the shape you want over the period you’re building the boat. It has to be rigid and easy to attach pieces to. The answer is a Strongback. And I want to be able to move the boat around the shop if I need to as well. At some point, we’ll have to flip this hull over to work on the inside. It will be nice to be able roll the strongback around the shop to get the gantry cranes over the hull when that time comes. Continue reading “The Strongback–A Platform to Build on”
Of course, once you decide to build a boat, you’ve got to have materials. In our case, the main material is wood–all different kinds. We’re using Sipo, a kind of African Mahogany for the frames, planking, and cockpit woodwork. Fir will be used for longitudinal members like the. We’ll also use fir to laminate the curved pieces like the stem, keel, and chines. Deck framing will be of Sitka Spruce. And Alaskan Yellow Cedar will be used to build the cold-molded hull. Continue reading “Lumber for the Palm Beach 22”
The yoke is a thwart (cross piece) at the balance point of the canoe that you can rest on your shoulders when you’re portaging (carrying) the canoe. This canoe’s yoke is made of Ash, a good hard, but rot-prone wood. Baseball bats are made of Ash too. At any rate, since the main part of this beautifully carved yoke is still perfectly serviceable, an easy fix is to scarf on new ends. Check out my previous article here more about scarf joints. Continue reading “Repairing the Yoke”
When we left off, we had fabricated new breasthook pieces, but they didn’t quite fit as well as I’d like. Check out the previous post if you’ve forgotten.
The trick is to chalk the inside edge of the inwales, fit the breasthook in place, and then see where the chalk transfers to the high spots on the breasthook.
Shave the high spots off with your favorite block plane, and repeat until you get a fit you’re happy with the fit.
You can really dial in a fine fit this way. Not too hard if you know the trick! The last step was to glue it in and coat it with special clear epoxy to seal against water. Then several coats of spar varnish will provide necessary UV protection.