Removing the bottom is a pretty straightforward procedure. With the proper tools, it doesn’t take much time at all. It can be done in a day.
The basic procedure is to abrade away the wood at each screw head, and back out the screws in the main frames, auxiliary frames, keel and chines. The other screws, in the intermediate frames, and those holding the inner planking to the outer planking, can remain.
The trick is to get all of the screws you need. Invariably you will miss a few that will show up when you get the pry bar out to take the bottom off. Be patient and don’t tear anything up. Just keep taking them out til you get them all. Then the half bottom lifts off, easy as pie!
Each half of the bottom can be lifted off as a unit and saved for later review. The planks on one side can be taken off individually to be used as patterns for the new bottom.
The tool of choice for abrading the wood at each screw head is a 4-1/2 inch grinder with a wire rope wheel. As you might imagine, this destroys the old bottom planks. So you can only do this if you’re not preserving the old bottom planks. But why would you be replacing the bottom if you weren’t going to use new wood? Some would argue that you should preserve as much of the original planking as possible, but I can’t see the logic behind putting back 60 year old, tired wood. We’re replacing all the planking and bottom frames with new wood.
As you might imagine, going after all the screw heads with a grinder will stir up quite a bit of dust. So the first step was to rig up a tent around the boat to contain that dust. I didn’t want it going all over the shop. I was able to set up my tent so that it enclosed one of my air filtration devices, so I could filter out a great deal of the dust that I generated.
I also wore a tyvek suit and a respirator during this operation.