I’m trying to get ready to coat the inside of the boat before I begin construction of the deck. It’ll be much easier this way with an open boat to work in. But before I can do the coating (clear coating on the sides and white paint in the bilge), I need to make sure all the pieces that make the boat go will fit. In the process, I’ll drill some more holes, glue in backing blocks, fabricate platforms, etc. As usual, what seems like a straightforward process requires many steps. Continue reading “Fitting the Mechanicals on the PB22”
Back to the Palm Beach 22
It’s been a long time since I posted anything about the Palm Beach. I haven’t forgotten it, and I haven’t stopped working on it. But there have been some intervening projects like the Riva, shoulder surgery, a trip or two… Continue reading “Back to the Palm Beach 22”
Flipping the Boat
I’ve done all I can to the hull from the outside. So it’s time to flip the boat upright so I can start working from the inside. To prepare for this, I’ve made 3 cradles to hold the boat in position once its upright. I used the patterns for some of the frames with one placed directly under where the engine will be mounted. Using the waterlines on the patterns, I was able to set up the cradles so the boat will sit level and plumb. Continue reading “Flipping the Boat”
Boring the Shaft Hole
At some point, if you’re going to build a boat, you’re going to have to put some holes in it. It just doesn’t seem natural at first. But it gets easier the more you do it. Best to get it right the first time though. Continue reading “Boring the Shaft Hole”
Bummer Dude!–Redoing the Topsides Again
I never did get the fiberglass to work to my satisfaction on the topsides. I tried again with smaller batches in cooler weather, but still got the fiberglass veil I spoke of in my earlier post. So I stripped it off again, decided not to stain the boat but just let the natural woodgrain show, and moved on.
A man’s got to know his limitations.
–Dirty Harry
Fiberglass Setback
I have not failed. I have just found 10,000 ways that won’t work. — Thomas Edison
Adding a layer of fiberglass cloth to any wooden boat will add an enormous amount of toughness to it. And if you do it right, the fiberglass is invisible. That’s right — invisible. The problem is in the “doing it right” part.
Okay, let’s step back a bit. Continue reading “Fiberglass Setback”
Final Topsides Plank and a Patch
The final topsides plank is fit and glued in place. Huzzah! It took a long time to get here because I elected to vacuum bag each plank individually. I wanted the tightest seams I could get. And in order to do that, you need to know the plank you’re fitting against isn’t going to move, even slightly. Without locator screws, which you can use in traditional boat building, you don’t know things will go back together exactly as they did during the dry fit. The topsides gets a lot of scrutiny on any boat–perhaps not as much as the deck, but it’s what people notice first. Continue reading “Final Topsides Plank and a Patch”
Fitting the Next Planks Using the Router
Last month, I described in detail the process of scribing, cutting, and fitting the first strake of final planking on our Palm Beach 22 mahogany runabout. If you missed it, I suggest you go back and take a look. It’s a necessary precursor to the process I’m about to discuss.
Laying up each plank and fitting it is a time consuming, although satisfying process. Refining your skill in creating light-tight seams between planks is a worthwhile pursuit. The better you are at scribing the previous plank edge onto your new blank, the quicker it goes. It’s a time-honored skill among boat builders. But let’s take a look at a more efficient method. Continue reading “Fitting the Next Planks Using the Router”
Fitting the Mahogany Layer on the Palm Beach 22
Our final layer of planking will run longitudinally to look like traditional carvel planking in this build. That’s where the longitudinal mahogany planks are laid edge to edge and screwed to the underlying frames. When it’s complete, you end up with a very smooth, fair hull with seams so tight you can’t even feel the transition from one plank to the adjacent one. Well, that’s the ideal, anyway. These boats worked because the seams tightened up after the boat was in the water a few days–tight enough to keep most of the water out. And while it’s helpful to remember we’re building a boat and not a Steinway piano, with a little know-how and patience, we can get reasonably close to that ideal. We’re going deep into the weeds in the next couple of posts so bear with me. Continue reading “Fitting the Mahogany Layer on the Palm Beach 22”
1958 HiLiner – Reshaping the bottom
We recently got a new project in the boat shop. A 1958 HiLiner came in with the complaint that it leaks badly. I took a look and found the bottom had lost its original shape over the years. The keel had compressed up into the boat, and some of the frames had separated. It’s not unusual for this kind of thing to happen to these classic boats over the years. After all, this boat is 63 years old. That’s older than I am (not by much, but still). Continue reading “1958 HiLiner – Reshaping the bottom”